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Fate of France's Cheeses in Doubt as Producers Cite Health Risks

use they cannot make 'lait cru' Camembert on the scale they want," he said.

Two years ago Gillot halted production after an outbreak of illnesses in children was linked to a harmful bacterium in Reo cheese, but he has since further increased health checks and insists eating 'lait cru' Camembert is much less dangerous than driving a car.

His biggest concern is that Lactalis will prevail on the National Institute for Quality and Certificates of Origin (INAO) to loosen the rules, so that heat-treated or microfiltered milk also qualifies for AOC status.

"If INAO does that, it will kill 'lait cru' because there will be nothing to distinguish our authentic Camemberts from their ones," he said.

"And if we lose 'lait cru,' we'll never get it back.

The culture, the knowledge, the methods -- they'll all be gone for good."


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